Acclaim

An opulent, polished version, this reveals ripe cherry, plum, tobacco and woodsy underbrush flavors. Well-structured, with edgy, dry tannins girding the finish. Best from 2021 through 2033. 3,300 cases made, 400 cases imported. — BS

2017 Marcarini Lasarin Langhe Nebbiolo (A$38) had strong support from Paterson. “The wine has excellent fruit reserve and savoury undertones,” she began. “The palate is well-defined and gently structural with appealing dried cherry. It unravels slowly in the glass, revealing subtle layers and nuances. A lovely wine.” I note raspberry and raspberry leaf and an excellent combination of sweet fruit and savouriness. There’s plenty of drying tannins, but the depth of flavour handles it with ease.

2018 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Langhe Nebbiolo (A$53) received top points from Bourne. “Abundant perfumes of violet, peony, raspberry and cranberry,” he said. “Spicy palate with lots of meaty and umami flavours. Complete and harmonious. Fine long tannins drive the finish.” The sweet and savoury flavours are mouthfilling and match the generous, dry finish.

2016 Conterno Fantino Ginestrino Langhe Nebbiolo (A$75), unusually, has a deep garnet-red colour. The nose matches it, dense and closed, with dark cherry and plum. The palate’s very savoury, powerful, even brooding, with dusty, dry tannins. “It’s super complex,” said Curkovic. “Spice and tar, black olive and black cherry. Beef stock, balsamic and herb notes. Extraordinary depth and length.” Please give it time. And flavoursome food.