Acclaim

The Ca’ Rome’ 2016 Barbaresco Maria di Brün is dedicated to vintner Giuseppe Marengo’s grandmother, Maria. She had deep roots in the Serralunga d’Alba area and was the original owner of the property the family now farms in this comune, specifically in the Cerretta and Rapet vineyards. This is a limited-edition wine only made in the best vintages (and some 2,500 bottles of the 2016 edition are available). The wine shows power and depth with a robust and generous quality of fruit. Black cherry, plum and cassis emerge from the bouquet. Fruit comes from a site with soils that are rich in magnesium and manganese. Once the wine opens in the glass, you recognize some rusty iron-ore aromas as well.” -Monica Larner

With some 7,500 bottles made, the Ca’ Rome’ 2017 Barbaresco Rio Sordo shows more black fruit and some of the ripe concentration that is a natural characteristic of this hot and dry growing season. The intensity of those blackberry and dried cherry aromas is greater in this vintage compared to the 2016 that I tasted at the same time. This edition of Rio Sordo also shows a softer and more succulent mouthfeel, with slightly more astringent tannins. -Monica Larner

The Ca’ Rome’ 2016 Barbaresco Rio Sordo opens to great aromatic intensity with dark fruit, dried cherry, licorice and crushed limestone. These classic traits are very in line with the vintage, and they reflect Nebbiolo from Barbaresco. The tannins are silky and firm, but they are also well integrated into the texture of the wine. The wine ages in barrique for eight months followed by 12 months in Slavonian oak, and this process adds to the volume and layering you get in Rio Sordo. Production for this vintage is 7,000 bottles. -Monica Larner,

The Ca’ Rome’ 2016 Barolo Cerretta opens to a deep ruby color and pretty aromatic intensity. The bouquet is authentic and pristine with wild berry aromas, blood orange, aniseed and campfire ash. There’s even a cheerful hint of crushed white pepper that adds a zesty touch of spiciness to the finish. In the mouth, this wine is long and polished with lingering oak spice. Some 8,000 bottles were released. -Monica Larner

The Ca’ Rome’ 2015 Barolo Cerretta is a pretty wine with good energy and intensity. The bouquet is redolent of bright fruit with lots of cherry and cassis that reinforce the inner freshness in this Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba. That zesty quality comes as a happy surprise given the sunny and warm vintage. Indeed, you’d almost guess that this wine came from a cooler growing season instead, thanks to that menthol freshness that marks the close. Some 8,000 bottles were made. -Monica Larner

The Ca’ Rome’ 2016 Barolo Rapet (with 4,000 bottles released) offers savory or meaty aromas that accompany dark fruit, plum and dried blackberry. This wine is muscular, deep and shows a dark and concentrated quality of fruit. There is some extra ripeness here as well. Located in Serralunga d’Alba, the Rapet vineyard sees compact calcareous soils with alternating layers of clay and sand. The vines are planted at 350 to 370 meters above sea level, where cool nighttime temperatures help to block in that Nebbiolo freshness. -Monica Larner

Rapet is a proprietary vineyard (it’s not part of the MGA map of official crus), but it is located in Serralunga d’Alba with compact soils that alternate between calcareous clay and sand. The Ca’ Rome’ 2015 Barolo Rapet offers broad and powerful aromas focused on dark fruit with lots of delicate detailing such as rust, licorice and candied orange peel. This wine ages in barrique for 12 months followed by more extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks. These warm-vintage results are rich and nicely fleshed out. Some 4,500 bottles were released. -Monica Larner

The Conterno Fantino 2018 Barbera d’Alba Vignota shows beautiful depth and intensity thanks to its pure and brilliant fruit. This Barbera is absolutely direct and linear in terms of its aromatic delivery with sour cherry, cassis and tart cranberry. Fruit comes from a 5.4-hectare plot that sees a big range in elevation from 200 to 400 meters above sea level with limestone and marl. These conditions are especially conducive to affirming the natural acidity and freshness of this food-friendly wine. An ample 36,500 bottles were made, and you get delicious value here. -Monica Larner

The Conterno Fantino 2016 Barolo Castelletto Vigna Pressenda (with 6,500 bottles produced) draws its fruit from a 1.2-hectare site in Monforte d’Alba with silty soils mixed with sand and clay. It opens to bright cherry and dried raspberry that set the tone for the abundant primary fruit that defines the bouquet. Those red berry flavors cede to cola, spice, mint and rosemary essence. There is an almost exotic quality here spurred forward by pressed blue flower and church incense. However, the big takeaway here is the sheer energy and resonance of this classic Barolo. -Monica Larner

Of these new Baroli from Conterno Fantino, the 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra shows the most underlying power, linearity and determination. While the other wines are a little softer and richer, especially on the mid-palate, this wine is all muscle and brawn. With its 15% alcohol content, its abundant bouquet and tight structural presentation, you should count on an extra long drinking window. Wait to pull the cork after the 10-year mark. At this young stage, the bouquet presents layered aromas of red fruit, tar, spice, ferrous earth and candied orange peel. There are hints of mint, eucalyptus and campfire ash. All said and done, this is a 11,700-bottle release of majesty and beauty that will make a proud and important protagonist of any collector’s cellar. -Monica Larner