Acclaim

“The outstanding 2014 Faro by Le Casematte offers a very authentic taste of one of the most promising new wine regions to emerge in Sicily. At the northern tip of the island, the Faro appellation is located at a crossroads of sea currents and rapidly changing weather patterns. You get a sense of that tumultuous energy here. This is a vibrant and sassy blend of 55% Nerello Mascalese, 25% Nerello Cappuccio, 10% Nocera and 10% Nero d’Avola. It reveals cool climate aromas of wild berry, rosemary, blue flower and a touch of exotic spice. You also get those distinct aromas of caper and Mediterranean bush that remind you of Sicily. Some 7,000 bottles are made. Gianfranco Sabbatino has suddenly appeared on the Sicilian wine scene like a comet that burns bright in the skies above. He came out of nowhere, but his strong personality has already left its mark. (Truth be told, Gianfranco has long worked behind the scenes at the Hauner estate on the island of Salina.) I had the opportunity to visit Le Casematte’s winery and vineyards and am absolutely impressed by the work underway in this hidden spot that overlooks the Straights of Messina. Consulting enologist Carlo Ferrini lends a hand, but Gianfranco’s loud and boisterous personality comes through in these bottles. The vineyards are planted to local varieties such as Nocera, Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nero d’Avola. Le Casematte (the “crazy houses”) is the name given to the two cement World War II bunkers that still stand among the vines today. This strategic position on the Straights between Sicily and the Italian mainland was obviously very important during war time. Those abandoned bunkers make for a very spooky presence if you happen to visit the property, as I did, after nightfall.” — Monica Larner, Wine Advocate Dec. 2016

“Good medium ruby. Dark berries, plum, licorice, and a strong note of violet on the nose. A wine of modest flesh and sweetness, offering an attractive blend of black fruits and smoky flint accented by a bright floral note. Finishes easygoing, with a fine dusting of tannins and lively acidity. Will show much better with food.” –Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“Bright dark red. Fresh aromas and flavors of raspberry, red licorice, graphite, plus a hint of menthol. In a rather soft, approachable style, with attractive red berries supported by firm but pliant tannins. Finishes medium-long and very bright, showcasing a fruit-forward personality and immediate accessibility.” –Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“Bright straw. Piercing apple, orange and pear aromas on the lively nose. Bright and juicy, offering off-dry flavors of peach and apricot. Finishes with average length and a hint of white flowers. This is easygoing and likeable, but smells and tastes like many other white wines made anywhere else in the world.” –Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“The 2014 Hierà shows its good cheer and happy disposition in the bright red fruit it possesses and its streamlined elegance. This distinctive red opens to fresh cherry, raspberry and light tones of mild spice that add definition and shapely contours. The wine represents an innovative blend of indigenous grapes including Calabrese, Alicante and Nocera. The taste profile is unique but there’s nothing not to like about this delightful wine.” — Monica Larner, Wine Advocate Aug. 2016

“The excellent 2013 Malvasia delle Lipari Riserva (500 ml) opens to an amber or dark gold color and thick, syrupy concentration. This is a very authentic and Mediterranean-tasting wine with dried fig, beeswax, preserved lemon and candied almond. The mouthfeel is simply gorgeous with thick lines and a bright point of acidity that keeps it light on its feet.” — Monica Larner, Wine Advocate Aug. 2016

“Moderately saturated ruby-red. Reticent, warm nose hints at medicinal cherry, menthol and herbs. Then sweet and concentrated, with very good sugar/acid balance giving lift to the suave red berry, red cherry and mineral flavors. Finishes brisk and refined, displaying a fine dusting of tannins and very good verve. Less exuberant than past efforts but the hot vintage played a role here.” – Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“Good dark ruby-red. The pure, bright nose combines red cherry, raspberry, menthol and licorice. Fresh, juicy and approachable, but with sneaky concentration to the flavors of black cherry and sweet spices. Finishes long, with dusty tannins and well-judged extraction. Lovely Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that’s hard to resist right now” – Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“Full bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of flinty dark plum, tobacco, and black truffle. Big, broad, lush and deep, offering plush flavors of black currant jelly, ripe dark plum and sweet pipe tobacco. Delivers plush tannins and enticing sweetness on the long, seamless finish. Already very satisfying to drink, but should age splendidly for another halfdecade.” – Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016

“Medium dark yellow. Rich aromas and flavors of spicy tropical fruit and apple are given vibrancy by harmonious zingy acidity. There’s nothing wrong with this white wine, but it has an almost semi-aromatic quality that does not remind me of Pecorino at all.” – Ian D’Agata, Vinous Aug. 2016